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Watch Wiki

Horloge Wiki WatchXL Horloges

Watch Wiki

Welcome to the Watch Wiki compiled by WatchXL: a compact but comprehensive encyclopaedia for anyone who wants to understand watches without the sales pitch. Here you will find an A-Z overview of terms you will encounter when choosing, wearing or collecting a watch: from glass and water resistance to GMT, perpetual calendar and movement construction. We also explain material choices such as sapphire crystal, mineral crystal, ceramic, titanium and coatings, so you understand what you are buying and why it makes a difference in use.

Brand overview

The watch wiki also includes a brand overview of the most important watch brands. Use this wiki as a reference when comparing specs, seeing an unfamiliar word on a product page, or simply wanting to sharpen your watch knowledge.

Of course, this overview is never complete, but we have done our best to include as much terminology as possible in our Watch Wiki.

Terminology A–Z

A

Drive

The way in which a watch converts energy into movement of the hands (mechanical, automatic, quartz, solar).

Lug

The part of the case to which the strap or bracelet is attached.

Readability

How quickly you can read the time thanks to contrast, lume, hand shape and dial layout.

Acrylic glass

Plastic watch glass; light and tough, but more susceptible to scratches than mineral or sapphire.

Alarm

Function that emits a signal (beep, vibration or tone) at a set time.

Amplitude

The angle of oscillation of the balance wheel; an indication of the health and adjustment of the movement.

Analogue

Time display with hands on a dial.

Anchor

Part of the escapement that regulates the energy in ticks.

Antimagnetic

Design/materials that are less affected by magnetism and therefore remain more accurate.

Aperture

Recess in the dial, for example for the date, open heart or power reserve.

Applied indices

Applied (3D) indices that are attached to the top of the dial.

AR coating

Anti-reflective coating on glass that reduces glare and increases readability.

Atomic clock synchronisation

Time correction via radio signal (or network) based on atomic time, often referred to as 'radio controlled'.

B

Band

The part that holds the watch on your wrist (leather, steel, rubber, textile).

Hairspring

The spiral spring that allows the balance to 'breathe' and thus stabilises the movement of the timepiece.

Balance wheel

The oscillating wheel that, together with the hairspring, regulates the time in a mechanical movement.

Bar

Indication of water pressure resistance (rule of thumb: 1 bar ≈ 10 metres).

Barrel

The spring barrel that houses the mainspring, the energy source of a mechanical timepiece.

Battery

Energy source for quartz watches; service life depends on the movement, functions and temperature.

Bead-blasted

Matte finish created by microblasting, which reduces reflections and gives a 'tool watch' look.

Beat rate

The ticking frequency of the movement, usually expressed in vph (e.g. 28,800 vph).

Bevel

A bevelled edge on the case or movement bridges, often polished for a luxurious appearance.

Bezel

Ring around the glass; can be fixed or rotatable (diving, GMT, tachymeter).

Bezel insert

Insert in the bezel (aluminium, ceramic, steel) with scale.

Bridge

Metal plate that holds the wheels and axles in the movement in place.

Buckle

Classic clasp for leather or rubber straps (pin buckle).

Butterfly clasp

Folding clasp that opens symmetrically, often found on steel bracelets.

C

Caliber

The type designation of a movement within a brand/manufacturer.

Capacitor

Storage component in some (solar/kinetic) movements that stores energy instead of a traditional battery.

Caseback

Back of the case; closed, transparent (display back) or engraved.

Ceramic

Hard, scratch-resistant material for bezels/cases; lightweight but can break upon hard impact.

Chapter ring

Ring (inner edge) with minutes/indexes between the dial and glass.

Chronograph

Stopwatch function with start/stop/reset, often with subdials.

Chronometer

Watch that meets strict accuracy requirements through certification or internal standards.

Column wheel

Column wheel in mechanical chronographs that often makes operation 'smoother' and more precise.

Complication

Any additional function beyond hours/minutes/seconds, such as date, GMT, chronograph or moon phase.

Clasp

Clasp on a bracelet or strap (folding clasp, diver's extension, micro-adjustment).

CNC

Computer-controlled machining that enables precise case and component production.

COSC

Well-known Swiss testing authority for chronometer certification (term often used as a quality label).

Corning Gorilla Glass

Chemically strengthened glass used primarily in smartwatches/electronics for improved drop and scratch resistance; info: Corning Gorilla Glass.

Côtes de Genève

Decorative 'Geneva stripes' on bridges/platines of luxury timepieces.

Crown

The crown (winding button) for setting the time/date and (hand) winding.

Crown tube

The tube in the case in which the crown/stem seals and moves; important for water resistance.

D

Day-date

Display of both the day of the week and the date (often in two windows).

Date disc

The disc beneath the dial with date numbers that rotates past the date window.

Date window

Recess or subdial that displays the date.

Deployant clasp

Folding clasp that protects the strap and makes the watch easier to put on.

Depth rating

Manufacturer's specification for water resistance, often in metres or bar.

Dial

The front of the watch on which the time, indices and complications are displayed.

Diver's extension

Extra length in the clasp to fit over a diving suit.

Diver's bezel (unidirectional)

Rotating bezel that usually only turns in one direction to safely measure dive time.

DLC coating

Diamond-Like Carbon; hard coating for wear resistance and a deep (often black) look.

Double-domed glass

Curved glass on both sides for a vintage look and less distortion from angles.

Pushers

Pushers on a chronograph for start/stop/reset.

Double sapphire

Sapphire glass on the front and back (display back) for a view of the movement.

Duotone / bicolour

Combination of two metal or colour tones in the case/strap.

Diving standard

General term for standards and requirements for diving watches (such as legibility and timing bezel).

E

Ebauche

Basic movement (half-finished) that is further adapted and finished by brands.

Escapement

The "heart" that ticks to distribute energy and regulate the movement (anchor, pallet, escape wheel).

Eco-Drive

Light-powered quartz technology from Citizen (charged by light, little/no battery replacement).

EDC watch

Everyday Carry: practical watch for everyday use with strong basic functions.

Perpetual calendar

Perpetual calendar that automatically keeps the date/months/leap years correct.

Endshake

The axial play of a shaft/gear in the movement; too much or too little affects performance.

EOL indicator

End Of Life: quartz signal (e.g. 'jumping' second hand) indicating that the battery is almost empty.

Escape wheel

Wheel in the escapement that transfers the ticks to the balance.

Eccentric

Adjustment or clamping component (e.g. for endshake/position) that allows fine adjustment via its eccentric shape.

Exhibition caseback

Transparent back through which you can see the movement.

F

Phase of the moon

Complication that displays the moon's position in a cycle.

Feathering

Very fine finish/transitions on edges, often visible in high-end polishing.

Fluted bezel

Grooved bezel that catches the light and has a recognisably luxurious appearance.

Folded links

Pressed, hollow links in a bracelet; lighter and often found in older or budget bracelets.

Flyback

Chronograph that resets and restarts immediately with a single push.

Frequent service

Maintenance interval (e.g. 3–7 years) depending on movement, use and seals.

Full-lume dial

Dial that is largely or completely luminous for maximum night-time readability.

G

Power reserve

How long a mechanical watch will run from a fully wound state.

Gasket

Rubber/plastic seal (crown, caseback, glass) for water resistance.

Geneva Seal (Poinçon de Genève)

Inspection/quality seal that (for some watches) indicates finishing and origin standards.

Numbered limited edition

Limited edition with unique number (e.g. 123/500).

Glass

Protection for the dial; types include acrylic, mineral and sapphire.

Gold (14k/18k)

Precious metal for cases; 18k is 75% gold, often alloyed for hardness.

Graining

Finish that gives a 'grain' or texture to platework or dials.

GMT

Second time zone via additional hand and/or 24-hour scale.

GMT bezel

Bezel with 24-hour scale for reading/setting an additional time zone.

Gorilla Glass

See Corning Gorilla Glass; often used in smartwatches due to its drop resistance.

Gilt dial

Dial with gold-coloured print/indices for a warm, vintage look.

H

Hands

Hour, minute and (optional) second hands; shapes influence readability.

Hairspring

English term for balance spring; crucial for accurate timekeeping.

Hacking seconds

Second hand stops when the crown is pulled out for accurate setting.

Hand winding

Mechanical watch that you wind via the crown (without a rotor).

Hardening

Surface hardening (e.g. steel) to increase scratch resistance.

Helium valve

Valve that releases pressure during saturation diving to prevent the glass from being pushed out.

Hesalite

Acrylic glass, tough and shock-resistant, but more susceptible to scratches than sapphire.

High-beat

High-frequency movement (e.g. 36,000 vph) for smoother seconds and potentially better stability.

Homage

Watch that deliberately references an iconic design, without being an exact copy.

Watch lume (light mass)

Collective term for luminous materials on hands and hour markers (paint, compound or gas tubes).

I

Incabloc

Common shock protection system that helps protect balance shafts from impact.

Indices

Hour markers on the dial (bars, numerals, dots).

In-house

Movement developed/manufactured by the brand itself (in various grades).

Integrated bracelet

Bracelet that extends seamlessly into the case and is part of the design.

IP rating

Protection classification against dust/water, particularly relevant for smartwatches.

ISO diving standard

Standards (such as ISO 6425) that set requirements for diver's watches.

Ivory dial

Colour term for soft off-white dial.

J

Jewels

Synthetic rubies in the movement that reduce friction and limit wear.

Jubilee bracelet

Five-piece link style, often comfortable and dressy.

Jump hour

Hour display that jumps in increments rather than smoothly.

JIS water resistance

Japanese standard markings that you may sometimes encounter on (vintage) Japanese watches.

K

Case

The housing that protects the movement and dial (middle case, bezel, caseback).

Case diameter

Width of the case, usually measured without the crown.

Case thickness

Height of the watch; affects wearing comfort.

Kinetic

Hybrid: movement charges a generator that powers a battery/cell (Seiko-type concept).

Crown protectors

Protruding parts that protect the crown from impact.

Crown stem (stem)

The rod that connects the crown to the movement for setting and (hand) winding.

Crown position

Positions of the crown (pressed in, date position, time position), often with a screw-down variant.

L

Lugs

'Legs' that attach a strap; lug-to-lug determines how the watch sits on the wrist.

Lug-to-lug

Distance from top to bottom lug; important measurement for wearability.

Lume

Luminous paint/coating (e.g. Super-LumiNova) for reading in the dark.

Lume pip

Small light point (often at 12 o'clock) on a diving bezel for quick orientation.

Lunette

Another term for bezel.

Luxury finish

Combination of polishing, satin finishing, bevels, perlage and decoration on the movement/case.

M

Mainplate

Base plate of the movement on which bridges and gears are mounted.

Manufacture

Brand that carries out (a large part of) its production in-house, often with its own calibres.

Material mix

Combination of materials (e.g. steel/ceramic/rubber) for function and appearance.

Mechanical

Spring-powered movement, without a battery.

Micro-adjust

Fine adjustment in the clasp to quickly adjust the strap length.

Microbrand

Smaller (often online) watch brand with limited editions and competitive price/quality ratio.

Mineral glass

Hardened glass, less scratch-resistant than sapphire but often cheaper and shock-resistant.

Miyota

Watch manufacturer (Citizen Group) with widely used quartz and mechanical movements; website: Miyota.

Module

Additional 'build-up' on a basic movement to add complications (e.g. chronograph module).

Moonwatch

Nickname for iconic 'moon'-related watches (well-known in chronograph context).

N

NATO strap

Textile strap that runs under the case; secure in the event of spring bar breakage.

Nivarox

Commonly used alloy for balance springs (hairsprings) due to its stability.

Nivachron

Modern type of balance spring/alloy with strong resistance to magnetism and temperature fluctuations.

Network time

Automatic time synchronisation via smartphone/network (smartwatch) in addition to radio/atomic.

No date

Dial without date window, often for symmetry and tranquillity.

O

O-ring

Round sealing ring (gasket) that keeps water and dust out of the crown/caseback.

Open heart

Recess in the dial through which you can see the balance/escapement (partly) moving.

Openworked

Dial/bridges are cut out so that the movement is visible (skeleton style).

Overcoil

Spiral shape of the hairspring (Breguet-style) for more stable breathing of the balance spring.

Overhaul

Major service in which the movement is dismantled, cleaned, lubricated and adjusted.

P

Patina

Natural discolouration/ageing of materials (e.g. bronze, lume, dial) that gives character.

Perlage

Decorative circular polishing (dot pattern) on platines/bridges.

Perpetual calendar

See Perpetual calendar; automatically corrects months and leap years.

Pilot watch

Pilot's watch with a focus on quick readability, often with a large crown and clear indices.

Plexiglass (acrylic)

Plastic glass that scratches more easily but can often be polished.

Polishing

Finish that creates a mirror shine, often on edges, lugs and bezel.

Power reserve indicator

Indication of remaining power reserve (hand or window).

PVD coating

Coating process that produces a coloured top layer (black, gold tone), with durability depending on layer thickness and use.

Pushers

Push buttons for chronograph operation.

Q

Quartz

Electronic movement with quartz crystal as a "vibrating reference" for accuracy.

Quartz chronograph

Chronograph with battery-powered movement; often accurate and maintenance-friendly.

Quartz crisis

Period in which quartz watches disrupted the mechanical market and significantly changed the Swiss industry.

Quick release

System on straps/bracelets that allows you to change them quickly without tools.

Quick-set date

Quickly change the date via the crown position, without turning it for 24 hours.

R

Radio-controlled

Watch that synchronises time via radio signal (atomic clock reference).

Rattrapante

Split-seconds chronograph with an extra second hand for split times.

Rehaut

Inner rim between the dial and the glass, sometimes with a scale or engraving.

Regulator

Display in which hours, minutes and seconds are placed separately for precise reading.

Crown gasket

The seal in or around the crown that is crucial for water resistance.

Ronda

Swiss watch movement manufacturer (quartz and mechanical), commonly found in fashion and mid-range watches; website: Ronda.

Rotor

Rotating weight in an automatic movement that winds by wrist movement.

Stainless steel (316L / 904L)

Stainless steel for cases/bracelets; 316L is standard, 904L is used in some high-end applications.

S

Sapphire crystal

Highly scratch-resistant synthetic crystal; top choice for premium watches.

Satin finish

Satin/matt finish with fine brushed texture.

Link

Part of a metal bracelet; links determine comfort and style.

Screw-down crown

Crown that you screw down for better water resistance.

Screw-down pushers

Chronograph pushers that you screw down to improve water resistance.

Second hand

Hand that displays seconds; can be located centrally or on a subdial.

Sellita

Movement manufacturer known for Swiss calibres that are often used as an alternative to ETA.

Silicon hairspring

Silicon balance spring that is light, dimensionally stable and highly anti-magnetic.

Shock resistance

Shock protection in the movement (e.g. Incabloc-like) to protect balance staffs.

Skeleton

Openworked design in which the movement is visible through (parts of) the dial.

Solar

Quartz movement that charges via light; often with a long "dark reserve".

Springbar

Spring pin between lugs that attaches the strap/bracelet.

Stepper motor

Motor in quartz that moves the hands in steps (often 1 tick per second).

Sunburst dial

Dial with a radiating brushed finish that appears to change colour in the light.

Swiss Made

Indication of origin with criteria for Swiss production/assembly (interpretation may vary by brand).

T

Tachymeter

Scale for calculating speed based on time over a fixed distance.

Telemeter

Scale for estimating distance between light (sight) and sound (e.g. thunderstorm).

Tension ring

Ring that (on some glasses) assists in mounting and aligning the glass and dial.

Titanium

Lightweight, strong and corrosion-resistant; feels 'warmer' than steel and is often hypoallergenic.

Timer bezel

Rotating bezel with minute markings for easy countdown or timing.

Tonneau

Barrel-shaped case, often found in dressy or avant-garde designs.

Tourbillon

Rotating cage around the balance/escapement intended to reduce positional influences.

Tool watch

Robust, functional watch designed for 'work' (diving, pilots, field work).

Tritium

Lume technology with tritium gas tubes (glow without charging), often used in military/tool watches.

U

Ultrasonic cleaning

Cleaning method (during servicing) in which parts lose dirt and old oil through vibrations.

Uni-directional bezel

Bezel that only rotates in one direction, typical for diving watches.

Movement

The mechanism that drives the time (mechanical, automatic, quartz, solar, hybrid).

UTC

Coordinated time that serves as a global reference; often relevant for GMT/world timers.

V

Valjoux

Well-known chronograph 'family name' for movements that have historically been widely used in the market.

Vibrations per hour (vph)

Frequency of a mechanical movement (e.g. 21,600 or 28,800 vph).

Folding clasp

Clasp that folds open in sections; often safer and more comfortable than a buckle.

W

Water resistant

The extent to which the watch can withstand water; practical use depends on the crown/seals and condition.

Winding

Adding energy to the mainspring (manually or via rotor).

Winding stem

English term for crown stem; connects the crown to the setting and winding mechanism.

Worldtimer

Complication that displays multiple time zones simultaneously, often with a city ring and 24-hour ring.

X

X-tal (crystal)

Abbreviation sometimes used for glass or crystal, depending on the context.

Y

Yoke

Part in many timepieces that is involved in the crown and setting mechanism.

Z

Zirconia ceramic

Commonly used type of watch ceramic that is hard and scratch-resistant.

Solar cell

Light-collecting layer that charges a battery/capacitor in solar watches.

Pocket watch

Watch designed to be carried in a pocket, often with a chain.

Zulu time

Another name for UTC/GMT, often used in aviation and military contexts.

Material technology

Sapphire crystal

Extremely scratch-resistant; ideal for everyday wear and premium watches.

Mineral glass

Tempered glass; affordable and reasonably strong, but less scratch-resistant than sapphire.

Acrylic/plexiglass

Tough and light; scratches more easily but can often be polished well.

Corning Gorilla Glass

Reinforced glass mainly used in smartwatches; info: Corning.

Ceramic

Scratch-resistant and colourfast; often used for bezels and sometimes entire cases.

DLC coating

Hard coating for wear resistance and deep colour.

PVD coating

Thin coating layer for colour (black/gold/rose gold), durability varies per model.

Carbon (forged carbon)

Lightweight and strong composite with a unique pattern; often sporty/high-tech.

Bronze

Develops patina; popular for its vintage/nautical look.

Silver

Precious metal that can oxidise; sometimes used for cases or dials.

Platinum

Heavy and rare; often used in the high-end segment due to its preciousness and feel.

Rubber (FKM)

Durable and sweat/saltwater resistant; popular for diving and sports watches.

Leather (shell cordovan)

High-quality leather with a long lifespan and beautiful patina.

Textile (NATO, canvas)

Lightweight, comfortable and easy to change; often casual/tool.

Technical diagrams

Diagram: case components

(1) Glass → (2) Bezel → (3) Middle case → (4) Lugs → (5) Crown → (6) Caseback → (7) Gasket(s) → (8) Bracelet/Band

Diagram: automatic winding

Rotor movement → Winding gears → Mainspring barrel → Gear train → Escapement → Balance wheel → Hands

Diagram: basic gear train

Spring barrel → Centre wheel (minutes) → Third wheel → Fourth wheel (seconds) → Escape wheel (to escapement)

Watchmakers and movements

Citizen Miyota

Major watch manufacturer with quartz, mechanical and (in some lines) solar movements; website: Miyota.

Ronda

Swiss movement manufacturer, strong in quartz and also mechanical; website: Ronda.

ETA

Swiss watch manufacturer with well-known workhorses (such as 2824-2 and 7750) for many brands; website: ETA.

Sellita

Swiss manufacturer known for widely used automatic movements that are widely available on the market; website: Sellita.

Seiko Instruments (SII/TMI)

Manufactures movements and components for the Seiko ecosystem and beyond.

Seagull (Tianjin)

Known for mechanical movements and chronograph calibres with an attractive price/technology ratio.

Soprod

Swiss movement manufacturer with various mechanical calibres.

STP

Swiss movement supplier, often seen in microbrands and mid-range watches.

La Joux-Perret

Supplies (high-end) movements and modules, often in the premium segment.

Dubois-Depraz

Specialist in complication modules (chronograph modules, etc.) for various brands.

Watch brands A–Z with model examples

A

A. Lange & Söhne

Lange 1, Zeitwerk, Datograph, Saxonia.

Accutron

Spaceview, DNA, Legacy.

Alpina

Alpiner, Startimer, Seastrong.

Audemars Piguet

Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore, Code 11.59.

B

BALL Watch

Engineer II, Roadmaster, Trainmaster.

Baume & Mercier

Clifton, Riviera, Hampton.

Bell & Ross

BR 01/03, BR 05, Vintage.

Blancpain

Fifty Fathoms, Villeret, Bathyscaphe.

Breguet

Classique, Marine, Tradition.

Breitling

Navitimer, Chronomat, Superocean.

Bulova

Lunar Pilot, Precisionist, Marine Star.

C

Casio

G-Shock, Edifice, Pro Trek, F-91W.

Cartier

Tank, Santos, Ballon Bleu, Panthère.

Certina

DS Action, DS PH200M, DS-1.

Chanel

J12, Première, Boy·Friend.

Chopard

Mille Miglia, Alpine Eagle, L.U.C.

Citizen

Eco-Drive, Promaster, Tsuyosa, The Citizen.

Christopher Ward

The Twelve, C60 Trident, C1 Bel Canto.

D

DOXA

SUB 300, SUB 300T, SUB 600T.

Damasko

DA Series, DK Series, DS Series.

E

Ebel

Sport Classic, Wave, 1911.

(Zegna Watches)

Fashion/brand watches depending on collection.

F

F.P. Journe

Chronomètre Bleu, Octa, Tourbillon Souverain.

Frédérique Constant

Highlife, Classics, Manufacture.

Fossil

Neutra, Machine, Townsman.

G

Garmin

Fēnix, Forerunner, Venu, Instinct.

Girard-Perregaux

Laureato, Bridges, 1966.

Glashütte Original

PanoMaticLunar, SeaQ, Senator.

Grand Seiko

Heritage, Evolution 9, Spring Drive, Sport.

H

Hamilton

Khaki Field, Khaki Aviation, Ventura.

Hublot

Big Bang, Classic Fusion, Spirit of Big Bang.

I

IWC

Portugieser, Big Pilot, Ingenieur, Aquatimer.

J

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Reverso, Master Control, Polaris.

Junghans

Max Bill, Meister, Form.

L

Laco

Pilot Classics, Augsburg, Aachen.

Longines

HydroConquest, Spirit, Master Collection, Legend Diver.

M

Montblanc

1858, Star Legacy, Heritage.

Mido

Ocean Star, Multifort, Commander.

H. Moser & Cie.

Streamliner, Endeavour, Pioneer.

MB&F

HM Series, LM Series, Legacy Machines.

N

NOMOS Glashütte

Tangente, Orion, Club, Metro.

O

Oris

Aquis, Big Crown Pointer Date, Divers Sixty-Five.

Omega

Speedmaster, Seamaster, Constellation, De Ville.

P

Panerai

Luminor, Radiomir, Submersible.

Patek Philippe

Nautilus, Aquanaut, Calatrava, Grand Complications.

Piaget

Polo, Altiplano, Limelight.

Parmigiani Fleurier

Tonda, Kalpa, Toric.

R

Rado

Captain Cook, True, Centrix.

Raymond Weil

Freelancer, Maestro, Tango.

Richard Mille

RM 011, RM 035, RM 27.

Rolex

Submariner, Daytona, GMT-Master II, Datejust.

S

Seiko

Seiko 5, Prospex, Presage, Astron.

Sinn

556, U1, 104, EZM.

Swatch

Originals, Irony, Bioceramic (collections vary).

Stowa

Flieger, Antea, Marine.

Sternglas

Naos, Hamburg, Marus.

T

TAG Heuer

Carrera, Monaco, Aquaracer, Formula 1.

Timex

Waterbury, Marlin, Pan-Am, Expedition North.

Tissot

PRX, Seastar, Le Locle, Gentleman.

Tudor

Black Bay, Pelagos, Ranger, Royal.


U

Ulysse Nardin

Marine, Diver, Freak.

Urwerk

UR-100, UR-105, UR-220.

V

Vacheron Constantin

Overseas, Patrimony, Traditionnelle.

Venezianico

Nereide, Redentore, Bucintoro.

Z

Zenith

Chronomaster, Defy, Pilot.



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