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Welcome to the Watch Wiki compiled by WatchXL: a compact but comprehensive encyclopaedia for anyone who wants to understand watches without the sales pitch. Here you will find an A-Z overview of terms you will encounter when choosing, wearing or collecting a watch: from glass and water resistance to GMT, perpetual calendar and movement construction. We also explain material choices such as sapphire crystal, mineral crystal, ceramic, titanium and coatings, so you understand what you are buying and why it makes a difference in use.
The watch wiki also includes a brand overview of the most important watch brands. Use this wiki as a reference when comparing specs, seeing an unfamiliar word on a product page, or simply wanting to sharpen your watch knowledge.
Of course, this overview is never complete, but we have done our best to include as much terminology as possible in our Watch Wiki.
The way in which a watch converts energy into movement of the hands (mechanical, automatic, quartz, solar).
The part of the case to which the strap or bracelet is attached.
How quickly you can read the time thanks to contrast, lume, hand shape and dial layout.
Plastic watch glass; light and tough, but more susceptible to scratches than mineral or sapphire.
Function that emits a signal (beep, vibration or tone) at a set time.
The angle of oscillation of the balance wheel; an indication of the health and adjustment of the movement.
Time display with hands on a dial.
Part of the escapement that regulates the energy in ticks.
Design/materials that are less affected by magnetism and therefore remain more accurate.
Recess in the dial, for example for the date, open heart or power reserve.
Applied (3D) indices that are attached to the top of the dial.
Anti-reflective coating on glass that reduces glare and increases readability.
Time correction via radio signal (or network) based on atomic time, often referred to as 'radio controlled'.
The part that holds the watch on your wrist (leather, steel, rubber, textile).
The spiral spring that allows the balance to 'breathe' and thus stabilises the movement of the timepiece.
The oscillating wheel that, together with the hairspring, regulates the time in a mechanical movement.
Indication of water pressure resistance (rule of thumb: 1 bar ≈ 10 metres).
The spring barrel that houses the mainspring, the energy source of a mechanical timepiece.
Energy source for quartz watches; service life depends on the movement, functions and temperature.
Matte finish created by microblasting, which reduces reflections and gives a 'tool watch' look.
The ticking frequency of the movement, usually expressed in vph (e.g. 28,800 vph).
A bevelled edge on the case or movement bridges, often polished for a luxurious appearance.
Ring around the glass; can be fixed or rotatable (diving, GMT, tachymeter).
Insert in the bezel (aluminium, ceramic, steel) with scale.
Metal plate that holds the wheels and axles in the movement in place.
Classic clasp for leather or rubber straps (pin buckle).
Folding clasp that opens symmetrically, often found on steel bracelets.
The type designation of a movement within a brand/manufacturer.
Storage component in some (solar/kinetic) movements that stores energy instead of a traditional battery.
Back of the case; closed, transparent (display back) or engraved.
Hard, scratch-resistant material for bezels/cases; lightweight but can break upon hard impact.
Ring (inner edge) with minutes/indexes between the dial and glass.
Stopwatch function with start/stop/reset, often with subdials.
Watch that meets strict accuracy requirements through certification or internal standards.
Column wheel in mechanical chronographs that often makes operation 'smoother' and more precise.
Any additional function beyond hours/minutes/seconds, such as date, GMT, chronograph or moon phase.
Clasp on a bracelet or strap (folding clasp, diver's extension, micro-adjustment).
Computer-controlled machining that enables precise case and component production.
Well-known Swiss testing authority for chronometer certification (term often used as a quality label).
Chemically strengthened glass used primarily in smartwatches/electronics for improved drop and scratch resistance; info: Corning Gorilla Glass.
Decorative 'Geneva stripes' on bridges/platines of luxury timepieces.
The crown (winding button) for setting the time/date and (hand) winding.
The tube in the case in which the crown/stem seals and moves; important for water resistance.
Display of both the day of the week and the date (often in two windows).
The disc beneath the dial with date numbers that rotates past the date window.
Recess or subdial that displays the date.
Folding clasp that protects the strap and makes the watch easier to put on.
Manufacturer's specification for water resistance, often in metres or bar.
The front of the watch on which the time, indices and complications are displayed.
Extra length in the clasp to fit over a diving suit.
Rotating bezel that usually only turns in one direction to safely measure dive time.
Diamond-Like Carbon; hard coating for wear resistance and a deep (often black) look.
Curved glass on both sides for a vintage look and less distortion from angles.
Pushers on a chronograph for start/stop/reset.
Sapphire glass on the front and back (display back) for a view of the movement.
Combination of two metal or colour tones in the case/strap.
General term for standards and requirements for diving watches (such as legibility and timing bezel).
Basic movement (half-finished) that is further adapted and finished by brands.
The "heart" that ticks to distribute energy and regulate the movement (anchor, pallet, escape wheel).
Light-powered quartz technology from Citizen (charged by light, little/no battery replacement).
Everyday Carry: practical watch for everyday use with strong basic functions.
Perpetual calendar that automatically keeps the date/months/leap years correct.
The axial play of a shaft/gear in the movement; too much or too little affects performance.
End Of Life: quartz signal (e.g. 'jumping' second hand) indicating that the battery is almost empty.
Wheel in the escapement that transfers the ticks to the balance.
Adjustment or clamping component (e.g. for endshake/position) that allows fine adjustment via its eccentric shape.
Transparent back through which you can see the movement.
Complication that displays the moon's position in a cycle.
Very fine finish/transitions on edges, often visible in high-end polishing.
Grooved bezel that catches the light and has a recognisably luxurious appearance.
Pressed, hollow links in a bracelet; lighter and often found in older or budget bracelets.
Chronograph that resets and restarts immediately with a single push.
Maintenance interval (e.g. 3–7 years) depending on movement, use and seals.
Dial that is largely or completely luminous for maximum night-time readability.
How long a mechanical watch will run from a fully wound state.
Rubber/plastic seal (crown, caseback, glass) for water resistance.
Inspection/quality seal that (for some watches) indicates finishing and origin standards.
Limited edition with unique number (e.g. 123/500).
Protection for the dial; types include acrylic, mineral and sapphire.
Precious metal for cases; 18k is 75% gold, often alloyed for hardness.
Finish that gives a 'grain' or texture to platework or dials.
Second time zone via additional hand and/or 24-hour scale.
Bezel with 24-hour scale for reading/setting an additional time zone.
See Corning Gorilla Glass; often used in smartwatches due to its drop resistance.
Dial with gold-coloured print/indices for a warm, vintage look.
Hour, minute and (optional) second hands; shapes influence readability.
English term for balance spring; crucial for accurate timekeeping.
Second hand stops when the crown is pulled out for accurate setting.
Mechanical watch that you wind via the crown (without a rotor).
Surface hardening (e.g. steel) to increase scratch resistance.
Valve that releases pressure during saturation diving to prevent the glass from being pushed out.
Acrylic glass, tough and shock-resistant, but more susceptible to scratches than sapphire.
High-frequency movement (e.g. 36,000 vph) for smoother seconds and potentially better stability.
Watch that deliberately references an iconic design, without being an exact copy.
Collective term for luminous materials on hands and hour markers (paint, compound or gas tubes).
Common shock protection system that helps protect balance shafts from impact.
Hour markers on the dial (bars, numerals, dots).
Movement developed/manufactured by the brand itself (in various grades).
Bracelet that extends seamlessly into the case and is part of the design.
Protection classification against dust/water, particularly relevant for smartwatches.
Standards (such as ISO 6425) that set requirements for diver's watches.
Colour term for soft off-white dial.
Synthetic rubies in the movement that reduce friction and limit wear.
Five-piece link style, often comfortable and dressy.
Hour display that jumps in increments rather than smoothly.
Japanese standard markings that you may sometimes encounter on (vintage) Japanese watches.
The housing that protects the movement and dial (middle case, bezel, caseback).
Width of the case, usually measured without the crown.
Height of the watch; affects wearing comfort.
Hybrid: movement charges a generator that powers a battery/cell (Seiko-type concept).
Protruding parts that protect the crown from impact.
The rod that connects the crown to the movement for setting and (hand) winding.
Positions of the crown (pressed in, date position, time position), often with a screw-down variant.
'Legs' that attach a strap; lug-to-lug determines how the watch sits on the wrist.
Distance from top to bottom lug; important measurement for wearability.
Luminous paint/coating (e.g. Super-LumiNova) for reading in the dark.
Small light point (often at 12 o'clock) on a diving bezel for quick orientation.
Another term for bezel.
Combination of polishing, satin finishing, bevels, perlage and decoration on the movement/case.
Base plate of the movement on which bridges and gears are mounted.
Brand that carries out (a large part of) its production in-house, often with its own calibres.
Combination of materials (e.g. steel/ceramic/rubber) for function and appearance.
Spring-powered movement, without a battery.
Fine adjustment in the clasp to quickly adjust the strap length.
Smaller (often online) watch brand with limited editions and competitive price/quality ratio.
Hardened glass, less scratch-resistant than sapphire but often cheaper and shock-resistant.
Watch manufacturer (Citizen Group) with widely used quartz and mechanical movements; website: Miyota.
Additional 'build-up' on a basic movement to add complications (e.g. chronograph module).
Nickname for iconic 'moon'-related watches (well-known in chronograph context).
Textile strap that runs under the case; secure in the event of spring bar breakage.
Commonly used alloy for balance springs (hairsprings) due to its stability.
Modern type of balance spring/alloy with strong resistance to magnetism and temperature fluctuations.
Automatic time synchronisation via smartphone/network (smartwatch) in addition to radio/atomic.
Dial without date window, often for symmetry and tranquillity.
Round sealing ring (gasket) that keeps water and dust out of the crown/caseback.
Recess in the dial through which you can see the balance/escapement (partly) moving.
Dial/bridges are cut out so that the movement is visible (skeleton style).
Spiral shape of the hairspring (Breguet-style) for more stable breathing of the balance spring.
Major service in which the movement is dismantled, cleaned, lubricated and adjusted.
Natural discolouration/ageing of materials (e.g. bronze, lume, dial) that gives character.
Decorative circular polishing (dot pattern) on platines/bridges.
See Perpetual calendar; automatically corrects months and leap years.
Pilot's watch with a focus on quick readability, often with a large crown and clear indices.
Plastic glass that scratches more easily but can often be polished.
Finish that creates a mirror shine, often on edges, lugs and bezel.
Indication of remaining power reserve (hand or window).
Coating process that produces a coloured top layer (black, gold tone), with durability depending on layer thickness and use.
Push buttons for chronograph operation.
Electronic movement with quartz crystal as a "vibrating reference" for accuracy.
Chronograph with battery-powered movement; often accurate and maintenance-friendly.
Period in which quartz watches disrupted the mechanical market and significantly changed the Swiss industry.
System on straps/bracelets that allows you to change them quickly without tools.
Quickly change the date via the crown position, without turning it for 24 hours.
Watch that synchronises time via radio signal (atomic clock reference).
Split-seconds chronograph with an extra second hand for split times.
Inner rim between the dial and the glass, sometimes with a scale or engraving.
Display in which hours, minutes and seconds are placed separately for precise reading.
The seal in or around the crown that is crucial for water resistance.
Swiss watch movement manufacturer (quartz and mechanical), commonly found in fashion and mid-range watches; website: Ronda.
Rotating weight in an automatic movement that winds by wrist movement.
Stainless steel for cases/bracelets; 316L is standard, 904L is used in some high-end applications.
Highly scratch-resistant synthetic crystal; top choice for premium watches.
Satin/matt finish with fine brushed texture.
Part of a metal bracelet; links determine comfort and style.
Crown that you screw down for better water resistance.
Chronograph pushers that you screw down to improve water resistance.
Hand that displays seconds; can be located centrally or on a subdial.
Movement manufacturer known for Swiss calibres that are often used as an alternative to ETA.
Silicon balance spring that is light, dimensionally stable and highly anti-magnetic.
Shock protection in the movement (e.g. Incabloc-like) to protect balance staffs.
Openworked design in which the movement is visible through (parts of) the dial.
Quartz movement that charges via light; often with a long "dark reserve".
Spring pin between lugs that attaches the strap/bracelet.
Motor in quartz that moves the hands in steps (often 1 tick per second).
Dial with a radiating brushed finish that appears to change colour in the light.
Indication of origin with criteria for Swiss production/assembly (interpretation may vary by brand).
Scale for calculating speed based on time over a fixed distance.
Scale for estimating distance between light (sight) and sound (e.g. thunderstorm).
Ring that (on some glasses) assists in mounting and aligning the glass and dial.
Lightweight, strong and corrosion-resistant; feels 'warmer' than steel and is often hypoallergenic.
Rotating bezel with minute markings for easy countdown or timing.
Barrel-shaped case, often found in dressy or avant-garde designs.
Rotating cage around the balance/escapement intended to reduce positional influences.
Robust, functional watch designed for 'work' (diving, pilots, field work).
Lume technology with tritium gas tubes (glow without charging), often used in military/tool watches.
Cleaning method (during servicing) in which parts lose dirt and old oil through vibrations.
Bezel that only rotates in one direction, typical for diving watches.
The mechanism that drives the time (mechanical, automatic, quartz, solar, hybrid).
Coordinated time that serves as a global reference; often relevant for GMT/world timers.
Well-known chronograph 'family name' for movements that have historically been widely used in the market.
Frequency of a mechanical movement (e.g. 21,600 or 28,800 vph).
Clasp that folds open in sections; often safer and more comfortable than a buckle.
The extent to which the watch can withstand water; practical use depends on the crown/seals and condition.
Adding energy to the mainspring (manually or via rotor).
English term for crown stem; connects the crown to the setting and winding mechanism.
Complication that displays multiple time zones simultaneously, often with a city ring and 24-hour ring.
Abbreviation sometimes used for glass or crystal, depending on the context.
Part in many timepieces that is involved in the crown and setting mechanism.
Commonly used type of watch ceramic that is hard and scratch-resistant.
Light-collecting layer that charges a battery/capacitor in solar watches.
Watch designed to be carried in a pocket, often with a chain.
Another name for UTC/GMT, often used in aviation and military contexts.
Extremely scratch-resistant; ideal for everyday wear and premium watches.
Tempered glass; affordable and reasonably strong, but less scratch-resistant than sapphire.
Tough and light; scratches more easily but can often be polished well.
Reinforced glass mainly used in smartwatches; info: Corning.
Scratch-resistant and colourfast; often used for bezels and sometimes entire cases.
Hard coating for wear resistance and deep colour.
Thin coating layer for colour (black/gold/rose gold), durability varies per model.
Lightweight and strong composite with a unique pattern; often sporty/high-tech.
Develops patina; popular for its vintage/nautical look.
Precious metal that can oxidise; sometimes used for cases or dials.
Heavy and rare; often used in the high-end segment due to its preciousness and feel.
Durable and sweat/saltwater resistant; popular for diving and sports watches.
High-quality leather with a long lifespan and beautiful patina.
Lightweight, comfortable and easy to change; often casual/tool.
(1) Glass → (2) Bezel → (3) Middle case → (4) Lugs → (5) Crown → (6) Caseback → (7) Gasket(s) → (8) Bracelet/Band
Rotor movement → Winding gears → Mainspring barrel → Gear train → Escapement → Balance wheel → Hands
Spring barrel → Centre wheel (minutes) → Third wheel → Fourth wheel (seconds) → Escape wheel (to escapement)
Major watch manufacturer with quartz, mechanical and (in some lines) solar movements; website: Miyota.
Swiss movement manufacturer, strong in quartz and also mechanical; website: Ronda.
Swiss watch manufacturer with well-known workhorses (such as 2824-2 and 7750) for many brands; website: ETA.
Swiss manufacturer known for widely used automatic movements that are widely available on the market; website: Sellita.
Manufactures movements and components for the Seiko ecosystem and beyond.
Known for mechanical movements and chronograph calibres with an attractive price/technology ratio.
Swiss movement manufacturer with various mechanical calibres.
Swiss movement supplier, often seen in microbrands and mid-range watches.
Supplies (high-end) movements and modules, often in the premium segment.
Specialist in complication modules (chronograph modules, etc.) for various brands.
Lange 1, Zeitwerk, Datograph, Saxonia.
Spaceview, DNA, Legacy.
Alpiner, Startimer, Seastrong.
Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore, Code 11.59.
Engineer II, Roadmaster, Trainmaster.
Clifton, Riviera, Hampton.
BR 01/03, BR 05, Vintage.
Fifty Fathoms, Villeret, Bathyscaphe.
Classique, Marine, Tradition.
Navitimer, Chronomat, Superocean.
Lunar Pilot, Precisionist, Marine Star.
G-Shock, Edifice, Pro Trek, F-91W.
Tank, Santos, Ballon Bleu, Panthère.
DS Action, DS PH200M, DS-1.
J12, Première, Boy·Friend.
Mille Miglia, Alpine Eagle, L.U.C.
Eco-Drive, Promaster, Tsuyosa, The Citizen.
The Twelve, C60 Trident, C1 Bel Canto.
SUB 300, SUB 300T, SUB 600T.
DA Series, DK Series, DS Series.
Sport Classic, Wave, 1911.
Fashion/brand watches depending on collection.
Chronomètre Bleu, Octa, Tourbillon Souverain.
Highlife, Classics, Manufacture.
Neutra, Machine, Townsman.
Fēnix, Forerunner, Venu, Instinct.
Laureato, Bridges, 1966.
PanoMaticLunar, SeaQ, Senator.
Heritage, Evolution 9, Spring Drive, Sport.
Khaki Field, Khaki Aviation, Ventura.
Big Bang, Classic Fusion, Spirit of Big Bang.
Portugieser, Big Pilot, Ingenieur, Aquatimer.
Reverso, Master Control, Polaris.
Max Bill, Meister, Form.
Pilot Classics, Augsburg, Aachen.
HydroConquest, Spirit, Master Collection, Legend Diver.
1858, Star Legacy, Heritage.
Ocean Star, Multifort, Commander.
Streamliner, Endeavour, Pioneer.
HM Series, LM Series, Legacy Machines.
Tangente, Orion, Club, Metro.
Aquis, Big Crown Pointer Date, Divers Sixty-Five.
Speedmaster, Seamaster, Constellation, De Ville.
Luminor, Radiomir, Submersible.
Nautilus, Aquanaut, Calatrava, Grand Complications.
Polo, Altiplano, Limelight.
Tonda, Kalpa, Toric.
Captain Cook, True, Centrix.
Freelancer, Maestro, Tango.
RM 011, RM 035, RM 27.
Submariner, Daytona, GMT-Master II, Datejust.
Seiko 5, Prospex, Presage, Astron.
556, U1, 104, EZM.
Originals, Irony, Bioceramic (collections vary).
Flieger, Antea, Marine.
Naos, Hamburg, Marus.
Carrera, Monaco, Aquaracer, Formula 1.
Waterbury, Marlin, Pan-Am, Expedition North.
PRX, Seastar, Le Locle, Gentleman.
Black Bay, Pelagos, Ranger, Royal.
Marine, Diver, Freak.
UR-100, UR-105, UR-220.
Overseas, Patrimony, Traditionnelle.
Nereide, Redentore, Bucintoro.
Chronomaster, Defy, Pilot.